Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Entering Salem


     Last fall, when the wind was just starting to cool down, and the leaves were just short days from beginning to curl up and die, I made it to Salem, Massachusetts. Upon hearing the word-- Salem-- images are insantly conjured up out of the fall leaves, of one of the darker chapters in the history of the land and communitites we now know as America.


Artist's rendering of Tituba telling tales to the Salem girls

     From February 1692 through May 1693, in the community of Salem Village, 19 people were hanged, 1 pressed to death, as many as 13 people died in prison and at least 3 dogs were killed at the hands of a government fueled by hysteria began by young girls. Betty Parris, Abigail Williams, Ann Putnam Jr. and Elizabeth Hubbard, aged 9 to 12, began to have fits and go into agitated states. The girls would go on to accuse residents in and around Salem Village of engaging in the practice of witchcraft, which either directly or indirectly caused the girls' hysterical afflictions, so they said. The images of what happened because of these girls-- women and men being hanged for crimes of the occult with no physical evidence-- have exploded on the legacy of American popular culture, and been reinvented and used throughout the years as a cultural touchstone of injustice and the evils Americans-- and humans, the world over-- can inflict on each other. The words "Salem," "witchcraft," hangings" and "witch trials" all come together to create the Salem experience known to the world-- for better, worse and indifferent; for truth, and for myth.



     The truth of Salem, the real experience of what happens on the grounds of the village, are less well known. And may never be possibly known. However, to try and gain an understanding of the horror that occured there-- the deadly witchhunt launched by an ignorant, fearful and hysterical community-- to try and grasp that understanding, you have to go to Salem, and see and read and question and experience all you can. 

      At long last, I was able to travel to Salem, with some friends. 
   
     Salem, Massachusetts is a beautiful place. The kind of beautiful place that only increases with the vibrancy of late summer, and fall. Seated on the water, the city now known as Salem is a melting stew-- which may or may not be contained in a cauldron-- of all the histories, tragedies and beauties the land has experienced. 


     You come into the city and it looks like any other New England town. Sloping hills, winding streets. A more modern, flat and sprawling cemetery greets you before you come into Salem proper-- a hint at things to come. When the Salem Visitors' Center comes into view, you see Saint Peter's Episcopal Church-- founded in 1733, with Sunday services currently at 8AM and 10AM each week-- and see the old stone church still standing, with gravestones standing in a small rock patch, feneced in, on either side of the church's doors-- stones going back to the time of the witch trials. In Salem, the veil between the past and the present, spaces where lie hundreds of years, is so thin you often cannot see it.


     When you go to Salem, go to the National Parks Service's Salem Visitors Center. The eager staff have information you will need to make the most of your hours there. A government service, the Parks' employees cannot promote one attraction over another-- so the overview they give you, much detailed, gives you every option you will need to decide between the tourist attractions, museums, historical sites, attractions and all that is unique to Salem-- both related to the trials and not (and many places somewhere in between.) So much lies in the Visitor's Center alone-- a mapping of the attractions pertainig to the witch trials, to famous resident Nathaniel Hawthorne (who, in some different ways, is related to the happenings of the trials), to the maritime history of this place on the water. Taking it all in, we quickly decided that our first stop would be one of many, and a first stop many make: The Salem Witch Museum. While leaving the Visitor's Center, I noticed these gorgeous glass orbs hanging by a display of ships-- and made a note to come back to look at them. I would soon come to learn what those orbs were, as we walked the streets of Salem.

     Up next: our experience of the Salem Witch Musuem. 



Sunday, December 29, 2013

The Season of the Befana


     I hope you had yourself a scary little Christmas, holiday, solistice or whatever early winter rite
you may or may not celebrate. In seasons past, I have written about the scary ghost stories and things that go bump in the night around Christmas. Be it the four ghosts of Charles Dickens' carol, or the punishing Krampus, the Ghost here remains fascinated by the nightmares of Christmas.

italytravelscape.com
     This year, I started reading about the La Befana, the Italian Christmastime legend. Anyone who knows the story of the Befana will know she is a kind, old woman with a broom who brings good children presents on Christmas. Many will tell you she is a witch. Delving deep into the Italian mythology, however, I have not found enough evidence to convict her of witchcraft. Perhaps the fact that Befana is old, with a broom at her side as a constant was enough for her to become a witch by association while the legend lived on and aged-- or, perhaps, it was the intent of the stories which were told to cast her always a witch. Never the matter; there is something about the legend of the Santa Claus-like woman being a witch which enamours the Halloween heart. And something, too, very true to the part of the witch in legend, where the indiviudal will become labeled a witch, for displaying simple pieces of the archetype.

     More formally, the story of Befana has tried to explain her as an heir to a heathen goddess, or at the least begetting her name from such an earth goddess. Befana is commonly described as a devoted housekeeper, who in the most often told story meets the three Magi on their way to visit the Christ child in Bethlehem, and, after they offer to have Befana join them on their quest, are turned down by her, for she has too much to do. Too many floors to be swept and kept clean, too much to do, to go on such a journey. Befana, on their leaving, regrets her decision, and has since spent the ages looking for the Christ child; finding other children on Christmas, and bearing them gifts, when she realizes she has not found the child she is searching for, yet.



     The Christmas ghosts, the Christmas horned-one, the Christmas witch. It would appear there is enough during the dark months while the snow is falling to keep a Halloween child involved, entertained, interested.

     To further celebrate my Befana Christmas, I attempted cut-out cookies of the old woman, with the help of one of my witch cookie cutters-- to questionable success.


Tuesday, December 10, 2013

'Tis the season...


     Although the season I so love is over, and I have-- with regret-- accepted that-- I am still here. I have to admit, with all these jingling bells, snowflakes, red-suited men and reindeer, I feel terribly out of place, such as our friend Mr. Jack Skellington here.




     Over what I am sure will be a long, blustery, white, cold, dark winter, I will be writing more. Now that autumn has come to a close, I will have time to finally write of my trip to Salem, Massachusetts, this past fall, and my own personal season of the witch. And absolutely, I will-- while Christmas and snow rages outside-- find some time for some scary ghost stories. And share them here. 

     A happy, wintry haunting to you all. 


Monday, December 9, 2013

A dreadful, wintery urge

For this dark, cold, blustery early winter morning, some words-- and images-- of wisdom from the great cartoonist Charles Addams.


Sunday, November 24, 2013

Margaret


     After Halloween, a photograph of Margaret Hamilton, in the dress of the character which made her famous and likely immortal, with Oscar the Grouch on Seasame Street came to my attention. Forever a fan of the witch, and Margaret's incarnation of the green, slipper-stealing role-- and of Jim Henson's mupperty-- I clicked over to YouTube faster than you can say "I'll get you my--" 

     And found nothing. After the fifth and sixth combination of "Margaret Hamilton Seasame Street" in my YouTube search bar, I realized something was suspect. Probably some copyright issue, I thought. Wrong. Clips of Margaret Hamilton, in character as the Witch of the West from the Wizard of Oz, on Seasame Street are unavailable not because of some copyrigtht issue, but because the episode-- having been deemed too scary for children-- has not re-aired or been seen since its premiere in 1976. 


"The Wicked Witch responds by making it rain inside [Mr.] Hooper's Store and even threatens to turn Big Bird into a feather duster and David into a basketball.
Only Oscar the Grouch initially admires her and suspects he may even have a crush on the witch. The remainder of the episode's street scenes follow the witch's attempts to retrieve the broom, including disguising herself as a harmless old lady. Big Bird grows to like her, and is, saddened when the witch departs, but she drops the broom yet again."

     After reaction that included letters from parents complaining that Margaret's Witch was too scary for their children-- and  a response from a Wiccan who equated the Oz character with their religion-- it was decided the show would never be re-run. And to the Internet's knowledge, it never has. What a loss, what a loss. What a world, what a world.

      For some consolation that-- at least for now-- you are not able to watch Oscar the Grouch fawning over the Witch of the West, watch this later appearance by Hamilton, dressing in character on a popular children's television program which caused far less hysteria; when Mr. Rodgers welcomed the Witch to the neighborhood.



Sunday, November 3, 2013

Novemeber fright


     The first few days of November are always a melancholy time. Pumpkins begin to leave windows, be thrown out, and gradually the orange glow and the crisp cool nights are replaced by images of turkeys, faceless pumpkins and cold, cold nights. All while Christmas carols begin to sneak their bells into the air.

 However, this year found me with appropriate bookends for the All Hallow's season. Earlier in the season, I wrote about how going to the "Frightworld" haunted attraction was the perfect beginning to set the spirit for the season. Last night, I found myself at "Frightworld" again, picking up what is now my new favorite t-shirt. Brilliantly, "Frightworld" was still open this weekend and delivering the scares. Walking into the building, hearing people scream, watching a group of girls walk out of a haunt clutching each other, I saw in the illuminated darkness that Hallowen is alive and well. Seeing the outside of the Eerie Asylum haunt, watching the lights flicker and hearing the screams made me want to walk through each one of them again-- and I would have, if it weren't for the people waiting for me out in the car.

 Thank you, Frightworld, for giving such a fitting beginning and end to Halloween 2013. Here's to next season-- and the three-hundred sixty-some days I have to blog about my favorite time of year until it is actually, again, here.

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Happy Halloween



     Well. The day for the blog is finally here. The reason I write these thoughts here, All Hallow's Eve is here. And I seem to be spent from the day, the night. Always, the rush to get the lights up, the tombstones out, the costume on before the trick or treaters arrive. Again, this year I believe I did a fair job of it -- but not enough, never enough.

      Notable things I did this Halloween include the likes of watching "Halloween" (or having it on in the background, at least; and the original, of course) three times and "Hocus Pocus" two and a half today, and carving several pumpkins. Among my jack o'lanterns, I carved Winifred Sanderson from one of my favorite and most enjoyable seasonal films "Hocus Pocus" (with a pattern from Zombie Pumpkins) and Jessica Lange as Constance Langdon from Season 1 of "American Horror Story." The pumpkins, too, valiant efforts.

      God, do I love this holiday. Everything it stands for; every foam tombstone out in the yard, every trick or treater wide-eyed at my fog machine spraying fog on the porch, every wig and piece of makeup to create a costume. The harvest, the day when the veil between the living and the dead is the thinniest, when everyone, no matter living or dead, can walk amongst us, and everyone can be whomever she or he wants to be. Mask or no mask.